quite possibly weeks or longer.
Having left Matadi and a newly enriched Customs Officer, we drove back on the Kinshasa road to Lufu, or any of the other names that towns in this part of Africa get called, depending on your language and which side of the border you nominally originate from. Lufu gets its name from the Lufu River, which runs from northern Angola to the Congo River (presumably) traversing the sliver of land that King Leopold managed to get to ensure that his colony had access to the sea. It’s less a town on the Congolese side and more of a crazy, uncontrolled (to the unfamiliar eye) trading post, where commodities ranging from cement and rebar to beer, plastic products, clothes and bulk food items, are traded across borders depending on exchange rates, availability, who you’re paying off and whether you’ve fuel in your truck (or motorbike for the micro-traders) to make it to Kinshasa.
Mo spent a good deal of the journey speaking to his boss and explaining the loss of US$800 and whether it was worth approaching their friend, the head of police in Kinshasa, to try to get it back. It was decided that route would be more costly in the longer run. “You sleep in shitty hotel tonight!” roared Mo laughing away, because we had to overnight in the nearby town of Kimpese in order to finish our investigation after the delays.
Kimpese is more hamlet than town, more shithole (thanks Dumb Donald!) than hamlet, with a handful of streets of formal houses and potholed dirt roads hidden behind the chaos and colour of the roadside informal trade. It’s also the epicentre of the cement industry in this part of the DRC, with all of the plants within a few kilometres of each other, located on huge limestone reserves.
because they have no education of use to a modern industrial plant.
The grandly-named Hotel Espace Nzilco was our place for the evening, and it looked as inviting as Mo had described it as. We checked in, Mo slipping the receptionist a little something extra with a none too subtle wink and grin, and went to unpack. Basically, the rooms are bungalows and resembled old military quarters from Belgian days, which a number of places I’ve stayed in in the DRC were. No Wi-Fi, so the bar and dinner it would be. Mo was already in full flight buying beer and whisky and chatting to whoever was in the bar. “My expensive friend!” he shouted as I walked in, telling the story in French to those listening and laughing. “Come! Drink shit whisky from you British and good beer from us Congolese!” Right on both counts. I chatted to a couple of Pakistani guys I’d worked with a couple of years before on a project not too far away. They drank like fish in the solid knowledge that what the imam couldn’t see, he couldn’t tell Allah (their words, more or less, not mine). Mo’s roving eye after a very good dinner of peri-peri chicken, freshwater fish and vegetables was my cue to grab a couple of bottles of beer and head to bed.
The next morning, we drove back to Lufu to inspect the border and try to understand the volumes of product crossing it, but we couldn’t get too close to the police or customs officials on account of my dodgy passport. We did some sums in the drizzle, and spoke to traders bemoaning the broken bridge, which would only take small vehicles as some of the supports had collapsed, meaning the cement and steel trucks had to offload onto small trucks and cars, get the goods over and then load up on trucks again on the other side. The Angolans, supplying most of the goods, wanted to fix it but the Congolese, trying to protect their dire, expensive and corrupt local industries were happy enough to leave it be to increase the costs of getting stuff to their side.
After a while watching, and trying to take pictures without getting seen (“No fuckin’ click-click – these cops’ fuckin crazy!”), we headed back out with a rough idea of what was going on. On the muddy, slippery road you have to drive slowly, but not everyone does. We saw a small truck lose control and careen down a small embankment, spilling all the fresh produce and breaking most of the beer it was transporting. The owner of the stock, a young lady, was sobbing. As much as the fright she got, that was her income gone for a few weeks, maybe more. Life on the margins is tough. It’s shit. Mo accelerated past the gathering crowd, all of whom were offering opinions as to whose fault the accident was.
doesn’t really give a sense of how slippery and potholed the road is – and unstable
on the sides, with bits caving in if large trucks get too close to the edges).
We got to the second town of Kongo Central Province, Mbanza Ngungu, and got stuck in the ubiquitous funeral procession, apparently for a well-known local musician. Mo wasn’t in the mood for dishing out cash, and kept his window closed. Apparently his wife was waiting for him. We got back to Kin without any further delays, and I’ve never been so happy to see a proper bed, hot running water, a restaurant and, most of all, familiarity.
A last day in Kin and I had an excellent meeting with a young guy from the investment promotion agency. Chatting through what I needed in terms of project information and our trip to Lufu, he smiled and said, “but we collect that trade data – even the informal trade, so we can know if our traders are being honest with volumes and prices”, and proceeded to e-mail the spreadsheets on the spot. What a win!
With a spring in my step, I went into my final meeting, with the national power company, looking for an outline of current and upcoming projects. The cantankerous bastard wouldn’t have been out of place in a recreation of Heart of Darkness and openly asked for money. Two faces of the Congo in one day, one old, one new; one condemning 80 million to poverty, the other swimming upstream to create a better life. All with the memory of the broken woman fresh in my mind.
It’s the Congo. It’s tough. It hurts you in ways you don’t expect; it thrills you in ways you can’t explain. It hardens you and teaches you humility and kindness all in one. It leaves you exhausted and angry; it creates a kaleidoscope of memories, vivid, jarring and spectacular. It never disappoints.
As told by serial luncher Deebee7.
Super Saturday, only 7 months late!
Ireland, England and France all still have a chance of winning the Six Nations.
In the unlikely event that Ireland beat France with a bonus point, they will win regardless of the other results. If they beat France, but without a bonus point, they still win if England fail to get a bonus point against Italy. If England win with a bonus point – as you’d expect them to – then it will come down to points difference, with Ireland currently being 23 points ahead.
If Ireland lose or draw, and England win, then England get the title, unless France win and have a better result than England’s victory in terms of championship points or, if on the same points, the points difference in scores. If they end up with the same points and points difference, then it comes down to tries scored, where France are currently ahead by 13-9.
Clear? Let’s play!
Onna telly this week
Friday 30th October
| Lions v Griquas | 16:55 | Sky Sports Mix |
Saturday 31st October
| Australia v New Zealand | 08:45 | Sky Sports Arena |
| Wales v Scotland | 14:15 | BBC1 / S4C |
| Pumas v Sharks | 14:25 | Sky Sports Arena |
| Italy v England | 16:45 | ITV / STV |
| Bulls v Stormers | 16:55 | Sky Sports Arena |
| France v Ireland | 20:05 | BBC1 / BBC2 |
Sunday 1st November
| Dragons v Munster | 14:00 | S4C / TG4 / Premier Sports 2 |
| Connacht v Treviso | 16:30 | TG4 / Premier Sports 2 |
| Italy v England (women) | 17:00 | Sky Sports Arena |
| Scarlets v Edinburgh | 18:45 | Premier Sports 1 |
Monday 2nd November
| Cardiff v Ulster | 18:00 | Premier Sports 2 |
| Zebre v Ospreys | 19:15 | Premier Sports 1 |
| Glasgow v Leinster | 20:15 | Premier Sports 1 |
Ovally Balls 
Onna telly this week
Friday 30th October
sod all
That’s what the thrilling, mighty Lions are reduced to: sod all.
LikeLike
Great words, Deebz. Sounds fascinating, exciting and bloody scary. And I’m not talking about the rugby.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Ahem, I might have missed a fixture. Now corrected.
LikeLiked by 1 person
St Helens vs Wigan on Sky tonight…
LikeLike
Thankyou Deebs (and Thaum). All the fascination without the pain of being there. I think I would be genuinely frightened!
LikeLike
Great stuff Deebee, I’ve always enjoyed your travelogues
LikeLike
What a sodding frustrating day I’ve had – I waited until two o’clock for a delivery of a new kitchen tap, then when I tried to install it I found that I couldn’t turn the water off, the outside stopcock, which….. oh stuff it, I won’t bore you with the details, suffice to say pushfit plumbing is a dogsend and I live to fight another day
Still with the old leaking tap, mind, but it will get sorted
LikeLike
Thanks all. My instrument, Thauma’s conducting.
LikeLike
Kiri Te Kanawa > John Williams by 10
Nicola Bennedetti > Cathryn Jenkins by 5
Nigel Kennedy > Andrea Bottecelli by 20
Claude Debussy > James Galway but only just
LikeLike
Decimated underdog Lions struggling to hold onto their 35-3 lead. Not really watching cause I’m braaiing outside, but the backs have put together some lovely phases.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks Deebee, very vivid and interesting account.
And thanks Craig for the kind words of solidarity on the previous blog. Entering another month of lockdown was depressing enough. Having fanatics stabbing old people in a church with the implicit support of foreign governments is not helping. Damn religions!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Played 36 holes of golf yesterday, as it was going to be the last opportunity in a long time. My first round was with a Scot and an Irish. The Scot thought Scotland would beat Wales. The Irishman thought France would prevail. May they be both right.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Friendship and solidarity from me too, Flair, always.
I’m speechless, I really can’t think of anything to say about these events that isn’t reductionist and trite
LikeLike
There is an awful lot goes through Dupont, imo Flair, perhaps too much?
Too much in that it’s fine when he’s there and firing, but if he is not…
LikeLike
Nobby Stiles – r.i.p.
Proof that substance ruled over style
LikeLike
Thanks Ticht.
I have yet to see a game where Dupont was not a threat. I’d rather have him play for France than for Ireland. Or any other team for that matter. He reminds me of the very best Will Genia. Like Ntamack, he’s very young and still improving. Their confrontation with Sexton and Murray should be quite tasty.
In the worst case scenario, Serin is quite able too.
LikeLike
Interesting, Deebee.
I can’t believe the naivete of that guy in Kinshasa who expected you to pay for something.
LikeLike
Is there a more English name than Nobby Stiles?
It’s full Tommy Atkins and all the better for it.
LikeLike
It’s probably going to blow up in my face, but I don’t have quite the same amount of FEAR for tomorrow that I normally have when we play Wales in Wales. Maybe its the fact that we’re not playing at a full Millennium Stadium, maybe its the fact that Wales are struggling to adapt to Pivac’s ways, maybe its the fact that 3 of our most important players have just been in major finals.
Or maybe it’s just that I think we have a better team just now (although I’m not sure about our midfield – Land mainly).
So Wales by 75 it is then.
LikeLike
Lang not Land. Was sure I’d checked it before posting. Must have been distracted by the Mighty Wolves, sorry, Iks’ Mighty Wolves to give them their full name, going in front against Palace.
LikeLike
ticht, his given name was Norbert – of German origin meaning Northern (Nor) and Bright (bert) – and Stiles is from the Old English stigel, which comes from the proto-Germanic stigiljō.
Of German origin so, yes, basically as English as you can get.
LikeLike
BB, I think Scotland’ll win. Not that fussed really.
If you dare, there’s an article about James Lang on walesonline. His dad’s from Penarth, apparently.
LikeLike
Well, yes, Tom, I almost added a proviso about anyone called Aethelwulf or bearing the name Plantagenet, but of course they aren’t really English either.
I was more referring to the Alf Tupper, Tough of the Track type thing
LikeLike
It’s very long but here’s the first part:
The Scotland rugby star rejected by all four Welsh regions and now facing Wales instead of playing for them
James Lang, whose father is from Penarth, spent three seasons playing for RGC 1404 up in Colwyn Bay, but he couldn’t get a contract with a Welsh region
Harlequins’ James Lang will line up for Scotland against Wales
If life had taken a different turn, James Lang could have been wearing the red of Wales this weekend not the blue of Scotland.
With his dad hailing from Penarth, he was qualified for the land of his father and spent three seasons playing here for RGC 1404 up in Colwyn Bay.
But with no offers coming his way from the regions, he headed for Harlequins and the rest is history.
He established himself as a versatile and valuable squad member with the English Premiership club, covering 10, 12 and 15.
Then in June 2018, he was handed his debut by Scotland, who he qualifies for through his maternal grandmother from Hamilton.
Now he is about to win his fourth cap as he returns to Wales to line up at inside centre against Wayne Pivac’s men at Parc y Scarlets on Saturday afternoon.
Despite his Scottish surname and Welsh background, Lang was actually born in Ashford, in Surrey, just a few miles from the home of English rugby at Twickenham.
He came up through the London Irish Academy, playing for Middlesex County, first coming to the attention of Scotland in 2013, when he was capped at U18 level.
But then came a fork in the road, thanks to the intervention of a certain Rupert Moon.
The ex-international scrum-half was in charge of north Wales rugby at the time, looking for recruits for RGC, and that’s when the 18-year-old Lang came on his radar.
LikeLike
“I stalked him,” said the former Neath and Llanelli No 9.
“The Union had a big list of exiles who were qualified for Wales and I used to trawl through it.
“Lang was on there, so I met him and his parents. He was with London Scottish at the time, I think.
“I sold him the dream and convinced him to come.
“It’s a big leap, as a teenager, to pack your bags and come from London to live in Colwyn Bay.
“You’ve got to really want to develop as an individual, but he immersed himself in it.”
Lang, who also took up a place studying at Bangor University, joined RGC when they were in the Championship, having just gained promotion from Division One East.
“He had some tough love experiences with us, which was great for him,” said Moon.
“Playing at that level, it’s a bit brutal, there’s no neutral touch judges, no hiding place. You either stand up and be counted or you don’t.
“I remember we played Bargoed in one of James’ early matches and he missed a kick in front of the posts to win the game.
“Some people would have folded, but he grew in stature physically and mentally.
“Then, a year or two later, he landed the kick to beat the same team.
“He just came of age in that period of time.”
Lining up primarily at 10, Lang played a key part in RGC gaining promotion to the Premiership and establishing themselves as a force in that division.
“He really made an impact because what he had was pace and he could kick the ball a mile,” said Moon.
“He also had stature, he is a big lad, like a Rhys Patchell size.
“He was consistent. He was really quick, he could accelerate and he was good goal-kicker.
“He was a hell of a talent, he just needed to play.
“He’s also a really lovely guy and that’s the quality you want.”
Then in 2016, with his studies completed, it was a question of what next for Lang.
LikeLike
“He was ready to go up to the next level and we offered him to all the regions,” said Moon.
“They looked at him, but no-one picked him up.
“So he went to Harlequins and he’s obviously gone from strength to strength.
“I have had some nice messages from the family during his various steps on the journey, because he was literally in no man’s land when we picked him up.
“It is by the grace by God you go, isn’t it?”
For two of his years at RGC, Lang was coached by another former Wales international in Phil Davies.
The former Scarlets and Cardiff Blues coach has fond memories of working with him.
“He became a key part of the team,” said Davies.
“I remember we had a game in Swansea where James played and he went off with an injury.
“It was a tough game for him in many ways with what happened when he was on the field and different things.
“Anyway, he came off and I remember chatting to him and his dad afterwards.
“We talked a lot about composure under pressure. In the end, he kicked the winning goal when we beat Pontypool in the final game of the season to get promoted.
“He was a really talented kid, but what I liked about him was he learned the lessons from experience as he went along and then put them back into developing himself as a player.
“He was really powerful, a strong defender and a good gain-line carrier, so he could play 12 as well, which is what he is doing at the moment.
“He was a good tactician, he really understood the game and that grew with him.
“He had good footwork, he was strong carrying the ball, his one-on-one tackling was good and he was a good kicker off the tee and out of hand.
“He was a good all-round player, to be honest, that’s what I remember of him.”
On Lang’s career path, Davies added: “We offered James around to our regions, but there didn’t seem to be a place for him, which was a bit of a shame.
“There was nothing for him here, so I tried to help him with my contacts in England.
“Harlequins asked me for a reference before he went up there and I gave them one.
“There we are, that’s how it is. Just because it doesn’t work out in one particular area, it doesn’t mean it can’t work out in another.
“It certainly has with James because he’s now playing international football.
“I’m not surprised to see him do as well as he has, because he is talented and a quick learner.”
Having taken his Scotland bow on the summer tour of 2018, playing against Canada and Argentina, Lang was then out of the picture for a couple of years, but was recalled to wear No 12 jersey for the opening autumn international versus Georgia last weekend.
Now he retains that berth against Wales, with coach Gregor Townsend keen on having an inside centre who can act as a second receiver and a second kicker, while also having the strength to carry the ball up and break tackles.
The 25-year-old certainly fits the bill on that count, as all those who saw him play for RGC back in the day will remember well.
LikeLike
ticht, I thought Alf Tupper as well. Helena Bonham-Carter is another v v English name (Greek, French, Gaelic)
LikeLike
Lang is a bit of controversial selection for this game according to many forums, if the true Scots, Sam Johnson, Duncan Taylor, Rory Hutchinson had been fit Lang would probably not have made the team.
Huw Jones can cover 12, but is best at 13, he misses out to another true Scot, Chris Harris, whilst Matt Scott and Mark Bennett will be watching on tv, probably
LikeLike
He’s ok from what I’ve seen of him. Not a world-beater but solid enough.
LikeLike
ticht, this is an interesting listen:
https://www.lrb.co.uk/podcasts-and-videos/podcasts/lrb-conversations/the-categories-are-stupid
(This one even better: https://www.lrb.co.uk/podcasts-and-videos/podcasts/lrb-conversations/catholics-and-lumpen-billionaires )
LikeLike
This game is absolutely crying out for Matt Scott, it’s going to be pissing down and a 12 that can cut a line from close to the ruck/maul is going to be gold tomorrow.
Toonie is running scared regarding defence in the centres because we’ve been ripped apart there before, hence Lang and Harris, fair play to them if that is what they bring, but we have real talent across the back three with Big Duhan to come on later, I just hope we can get some wide ball
LikeLike
oooh, those look interesting, cheers Tom, I’ll listen to them over the weekend.
LikeLike
Tom, I don’t know if this will be your sort of thing but I saw it tonight.
I know you are into languages, it’s an ornithology book with poetry in Scots
https://booksfromscotland.com/book/wilsons-ornithology-and-burds-in-scots/?fbclid=IwAR24RELuNs7cjhIO6zS-FV08JQbYZUS0Em2APMiIKNLeEBH8lpOtZBFjJz4
LikeLike
Huw Jones has also been doing OK at fullback for Glasgow. Certainly better than when Tommy Seymour tried at FB. I’m also not convinced by Kinghorn at 15 as possible fill-in for Hoggy, think KH is better on the wing.
Not really seen Lang a lot with Quins, doesn’t seem to be as eye-catching as the likes of Hutchinson. But at least he’s not Peter Horne. Also think Hastings will come on and play 12 at some point and keep Finn at 10. All this is depending on injuries of course.
LikeLike
Just proves that even (possible/probable) internationals have had uncertain times during lockdown.
LikeLike
That’s a great interview. BB. Good luck to the laddie, I hope he goes really well when he comes on
LikeLike
Campo must be enjoying his early evening humble pie. Not watching, been dragged off garden shopping. Apparently you have to buy all the bits and plant them yourself. Who knew? Anyway, AB’s out of sight before half time.
LikeLike
Great travelogue Deebs.
Kiwi commentators desperately trying to keep viewing figures up for the second half. “New Zealand 26-0 up, but this is rugby, anything can happen, with forty minutes to go “. Yup, like another 40 points.
LikeLike
Desparately tempting fate for the last post, Wobblies get one back. Woohoo Anything can happen.
LikeLike
Words Deebs.
LikeLike
Cheika suddenly looks like a genius.
LikeLike
Ned Hannigan is never the answer.
LikeLike
RIP Sean Connery, although you’re not from Oldham.
LikeLike
Me nerves are startin to jangle.
LikeLike
Spaffer to announce lockdown in the middle of Super Saturday. Bet he doesn’t hang around. (16:00, so 45 mins before Italy v England kick-off.)
LikeLike
Scots told to avoid England
LikeLike
Sean Connery resht in peash
LikeLiked by 1 person
Three Hawick lads at the end of the line there
LikeLike
‘Mon boys!
(Even with 3 Hawick lads in the lineup….)
LikeLiked by 1 person
Can’t take Cotter’s commentary seriously any more. Keep expecting him to mention the dogs.
LikeLiked by 2 people